PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK

Santiago Fashion March 26, 2015
Christian Dior Haute Couture.

The spring collection, designed by Raf Simons, proves that his inspiration, vision and conceptual perception of fashion are unbeatable.

As a creative director for Dior, Christian managed to represent more than just himself. For him, creating beautiful gowns was not enough: he embodied the very history of Dior itself. Now, all eyes are on Raf Simons as he faces the daunting challenge of taking over.

Simons often trawls the musical archives for inspiration. His haute couture collection was originally inspired by the image of David Bowie. The Belgium designer was less interested in Bowie the rock icon; it was the his protean ability to transform himself that he admires.

“He’s a chameleon, able to reinvent himself but he’s also the materialization of something else. More than a man-an idea.” Raf Simons, for style.com.

For the 2015 spring collection , Simons created multi-layered designs using materials of differing transparency. In particular, he chose materials like plastic, PCV, glittery embroideries and the delicate filigree of lace. The effect was sensational. Certainly, this must have been the first time in haute couture that a plastic look has found its way onto the catwalk.

Another of the collection’s intriguing elements were thigh length vinyl boots in varying, vibrant colours. This style of footwear recalled something of the inventions of Mary Quant and the mood of the sixties. This plastic look added an interesting,futuristic look to the collection.

Pastel shades blended with vivid reds and greens in a range of vibrant patterns, decorated with silver and black, recalled the seventies – further proof  of his creative imagination. Incredibly, the show managed to blend the romanticism of the fifties, the shock of the experimental sixties and the space age 70’s in a visual harmony that worked. The catwalk was replete with beautiful gowns, romantic and luxurious as befits the image of Christian Dior.

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Zuhair Murad

Visitors to Zuhair Murad’s haute couture show in Paris were captivated by a fairy tale ambience – as beautiful as it was feminine.

Since childhood, Zuhair Murad has always dreamt of escaping into a world of fantasy. His spectacular style of feminine couture aims to present the beauty of the women who wear them in its purest form.    

Murad’s spring collection 2015, set out to create an almost mythalogical mood. All the models appeared to float down the runway like ice queens – princesses from myth and legend.

Each piece has wonderfully detailed craftmanship, recalling the best traditions of Parisian haute couture.

The whole collection of gowns evokes different states of water, signifying purity and a new beginning; some like waterfalls; others like frozen sculptures; others again like beautiful white clouds.

‘’(…) rippling embroidery, pleating in waves around the waist, Watteau backs mimicking waterfalls, whirlpools of tulle at the shoulders, plunging necklines, a swimsuit bodice with a crystal-encrusted mermaid overlay, and, as if that weren’t enough, embellished boat necks’’

Amy Verner, the contributor of style.com.

Each and every dress was different. Nothing was exaggerated; all elements combined to create a rich visual tapestry. Harmony and breath-taking beauty are the words which best describe Zuhair Murad’s 2015 spring fashion  haute couture show in Paris.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier has assumed a pre-eminent position on the fashion scene : not merely in contemporary terms but as a dominating influence on the whole history of fashion. Paul’s designs always suggest a hint of surrealism; these are dresses for powerful self confident women who demand nothing but the best. Often feminine, cccasionally androgynous, Gaultier’s forceful designs can also reflect a macabre sense of humour. His collections seem eclectic, but once the inspiration behind the creative process becomes clear, the audience gets the point immediately.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture collection for spring 2015 was inspired by the classic white dress of a bride. However, nothing on this catwalk has much to do with wedding dresses you’ve seen before.

‘’The bride wore a lace bomber and tulle ball skirt… the bride wore shorts… and the bride wore blue jeans.’’

Nicole Phelps, executive Editor of Style.com.

Also worth mentioning is the selection of the models themselves. An infinite variety of feminine beauty was on display: different skin colours and age ranges perfectly  set off this spectacular collection. A bride in Jean Paul Gaultier’s eyes is not like a fairy tale princess, robed in pure white. On the contrary, his bride is a full blooded woman, the kind that does not necessarily follow socially accepted norms, but one who is open minded and aware of her body. The woman he presents knows herself and what she wants.

From the start of the show, Paul presented his favourite masculine-feminine hybrid creations. At the same time, there was no shortage of corsets, crinoline cages, plus a lot of snake skin and satin.

In reaction, the audience, cheered almost  every one of Jean Paul Gaultier’s creations to appear on the catwalk. This speaks louder than any words by critics. Beyond all doubt, the fans were far from disappointed..   

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